Soupe à l’Oignon

Lorsque vous n’avez pas, sous la main de bouillon
Vous pouvez faire à l’eau cette soupe à l’oignon
En liant la farine, alors pour compenser
Ou prenez du bouillon de légume passé
Donc,  faites revenir des oignons émincés
Recouvrez du liquide en tournant, puis, laissez.
Pendant que cela cuit, profitez de répit
Salez, poivrez, beurrez, de très minces tartines
Faites griller au four toutes ces tranches fines
En les nappant d’abord de rappé de gruyère
Mettez-en la moitié dans la marmite en terre
Versez dessus la soupe et les croutons restants
Tour cela va tremper pendant quelques instants
Recouvrer de fromage en maintenant au four
Et quand la soupe gonfle et s’offre mitonnée
Servez la, bouillante, en coulis de velours
Et qu’on savoure alors, la bonne “Gratinée”

Emilie Bernard 
[Recette N° 45]
Éditions LYNA, Paris

Photo Appollot – Grasse

Ratatouille

 

La Ratatouille Niçoise

Emilie Bernard 
[Recette N° 4]
Éditions LYNA, Paris 
Photograph by Paul Child  ~ Julia Child at her apartment at 81 rue de l’universite in Paris, ca. 1950  [Collections of the Schlesinger Library]
Julia Child’s Ratatouille    
1 pound eggplant
1 pound zucchini
A 3-quart, porcelain or stainless-steel mixing bowl
1 teaspoon salt
A 10- to 12-inch enameled skillet
4 tablespoons olive oil, more if needed
1/2 pound (about 1 1/2 cups) thinly sliced yellow onions
2 (about 1 cup) sliced green bell peppers
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, if necessary
2 cloves mashed garlic
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pound firm, ripe, red tomatoes, peeled, seeded and juiced (makes 1 1/2 cups pulp)
Salt and pepper
A 2 1/2 quart fireproof casserole about 2 1/2 inches deep
3 tablespoons minced parsley
Salt and pepper

 Peel the eggplant and cut into lengthwise slices 3/8 inch thick, about 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. 
Scrub the zucchini, slice off the two ends and cut the zucchini into slices about the same size as the eggplant slices. 
Place the vegetables in a bowl and toss with the salt. Let stand for 30 minutes. Drain. Dry each slice in a towel.
One layer at a time, saute the eggplant and then the zucchini in hot olive oil in the skillet for about a minute on each side to brown very lightly. Remove to a side dish.
In the same skillet, cook the onions and peppers slowly in olive oil for about 10 minutes, or until tender but not browned. Stir in the garlic and season to taste.
Slice the tomato pulp into 3/8-inch strips. Lay them over the onions and peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, or until tomatoes have begun to render their juice. Uncover, baste the tomatoes with the juices, raise heat and boil for several minutes, until juice has almost entirely evaporated.
Place a third of the tomato mixture in the bottom of the casserole and sprinkle over it 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Arrange half of the eggplant and zucchini on top, then half the remaining tomatoes and parsley. Put in the rest of the eggplant and zucchini and finish with the remaining tomatoes and parsley. 
Cover the casserole and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Uncover, tip casserole and baste with the rendered juices. Correct seasoning, if necessary. Raise heat slightly and cook uncovered for about 15 minutes more, basting several times, until juices have evaporated leaving a spoonful or two of flavored olive oil. Be careful of your heat; do not let the vegetables scorch in the bottom of the casserole.
Set aside uncovered. Reheat slowly at serving time or serve cold. Yields 6-8 servings.

Mastering the Art of French Cooking

Fabulous Martha

 
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Martha Stewart’s Holiday Calendar
 [ca. 1996-1997]

     December 1    
Blanch carcass from Thanksgiving turkey. 
Spray paint gold, turn upside down and use as a sleigh to hold Christmas Cards.
     December 2    
Have Mormon Tabernacle Choir record outgoing Christmas message
 for answering machine.
     December 3    
Using candlewick and handgilded miniature pine cones, 
fashion cat-o-nine-tails. Flog Gardener.
     December 4    
Address sympathy cards for all friends with elderly relatives, 
so that they’re all ready to be mailed at the moment death occurs. 
Repaint Sistine Chapel ceiling in ecru, with mocha trim.
 * 
     December 5    
Get new eyeglasses. Grind lenses myself.
     December 6    
Fax family Christmas newsletter to Pulitzer committee for consideration.
     December 7    
Debug Windows ’95
     December 8    
Decorate homegrown Christmas tree with scented candles handmade with
beeswax from my backyard bee colony.
     December 9    
Record own Christmas album complete with 4 part harmony 
and all instrument accompaniment performed by myself. 
Mail to all my friends and loved ones.
*  
     December 10    
Align carpets to adjust for curvature of Earth.
*  
     December 11     
Lay Faberge egg.
*  
     December 12    
Erect ice skating rink in front yard using spring water I bottled myself.
Open for neighborhood children’s use.
Create festive mood by hand making snow and playing my Christmas album.
*  
     December 13     
Collect Dentures. 
They make excellent pastry cutters, particularly for decorative pie crusts.
*  
     December 14    
 Install plumbing in gingerbread house.
 *  
     December 15    
Replace air in mini-van tires with Glade “holiday scents” 
in case tires are shot out at mall.
*  
     December 17    
Child proof the Christmas tree with garland of razor wire.
*  
     December 19    
Adjust legs of chairs so each Christmas dinner guest will be same height
when sitting at his or her assigned seat.
*  
     December 20     
Dip sheep and cows in egg whites and roll in confectioner’s sugar
to add a festive sparkle to the pasture.
*  
     December 21     
Drain city reservoir; 
refill with mulled cider, orange slices and cinnamon sticks.
*  
     December 22    
Float votive candles in toilet tank.
*  
     December 23    
Seed clouds for white Christmas.
*  
     December 24     
Do my annual good deed. Go to several stores.
Be seen engaged in last minute Christmas shopping,
 thus making many people feel less inadequate than they really are.
 *  
     December 25    
Bear son. Swaddle.
Lay in color coordinated manger scented with homemade potpourri.
*  
     December 26    
Organize spice racks by genus and phylum.
*  
     December 27    
Build snowman in exact likeness of God.
*  
     December 28     
Take Dog apart. Disinfect. Reassemble.
*  
     December 29    
Hand sew 365 quilts, 
each using 365 material squares I weaved myself 
used to represent the 365 days of the year. 
Donate to local orphanages.
*  
     December 30    
Release flock of white doves,
each individually decorated with olive branches,
to signify desire of world peace.
*  
     December 31    
New Year’s Eve!
Give staff their resolutions.
Call a friend in each time zone of the world
as the clock strikes midnight in that country.
*  
January 1  
Catch up on gardening. 
Sew leaves back on trees.

 

Vol-au-vent

19th-century seafood vol-au-vent filled with scallops, mussels and langoustine
Chef Eric Ripert ~ Le Bernardin , 2009

 

Louis Eustache Ude
French Cook
Ci-devant Cook to Louis XVI. and the Earl of Sefton, and Steward to his Late Royal Highness the Duke of York. Philadelphia: Carey, Lea and Carey , 1828.
The first cookbook printed in America devoted exclusively to French cooking. Another was not published in America until 1832.

“First published in London in 1813, Ude’s The French Cook was undoubtedly a great success, going through numerous editions. Although it was not, as Favre argued, the first culinary work to appear in London, there is some truth in the claim that Ude was ‘one of the first to popularize haute cuisine in London’ (Favre, vol. 4, p. 1803). The saying, ‘Coquus nascitur non fit’—‘cooks are born, not made’—is attributed to him…He also insists that cookery is the most difficult and demanding of the sciences; that there are few good cooks, though many who claim to be; and that a properly qualified cook can be ‘placed in the rank of artists’ (ibid., xxix).”

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